This blog is the digital home of a project that began as a thought that arose as I was collecting firewood in a small patch of feral eucalyptus forest, beside the farmstead I was staying at in central Portugal. The thought: what the hell is all this flammable, nonnative eucalyptus doing here in the hills of central Portugal countryside – a place otherwise known as the wildfire capital of Europe – and so close to the farm, at that?
I first noticed the strips of thin, orange-hued bark, which peeled in motley clusters around the bases of spindly trees I couldn’t name. They formed a strict grid-like structure, which gave this desolate tract of forest an eeriness I couldn’t put my finger on: where were the calls of birds, or the flutter of winged insects? These tracts surrounded the farmstead I had arrived at not long ago, and on which I would volunteer for the next few weeks. What kind of trees these strange figures were was unknown to me back then. Indeed, back then, forests were forests, the trees its residents – and this bark, I was told, made for perfect kindling once the winter damp had been expunged. There was little else on the forest floor but for a matting of the long strips of bark – some a metre-long or more – and weepy, lanceolate leaves, breaking down into a sodden mulch; here and there lay large pinecones, dropped by the rougher-barked conifers set amongst the unknown trees, which I packed along with the bark into the reusable supermarket bag on my shoulder. Warmth came from the small log burner in the farmhouse. The fire would be lit sometime in the afternoon, its heat warming us through the evening, and travelling upwards into the long, narrow attic where we volunteers slept.
Over the next few days, I became transfixed by these strange, peeling figures. I learnt that they were eucalypts, native to Australia; that they were Portugal’s most common species of tree; that most of it was grown for pulp, which was processed into paper, much of it toilet paper, and nearly all for export to Northern Europe. I heard about their oily, flammable leaves; their unquenchable, river-slowing thirst and their predilection for fire as a means of propagation. I heard about their prodigious growth, their less-than-friendly (allelopathic) relations with other species, and their penchant for popping up where they shouldn’t, particularly after a fire. And I heard about the fires – a normal part of the hottest, driest months here – but which in 2017 raged through this part of central Portugal, on land not far from here, like never before. Scientists even gave these fires a new name: megafires.
Forest fire had already been on my mind. A few weeks before, on the road to a small coastal town, I had passed through what remained of the Pinhal de Leiria (the Pine Forest of Leiria), still a partially burnt-out ghost of its former self. Over 80% of it had burnt in one of the infamous 2017 fires, which three years before I had watched on the blazing news reports with astonishment, feeling that all-too-familiar sense of mixed-up awe and sadness that seem to hum as the affective soundtrack to our age of planetary unravelling. That year some half-million hectares of land burnt, and over a hundred lives were lost. The planted ‘forests’ that had fuelled the development dreams of 20th century Portugal were increasingly going feral, themselves fuelling other forms of flammable and feral proliferation. Progress was proving flammable, and the kinds of extractive and highly intensive forms of exploitation it had driven were turning out to be not only unthinkable, but increasingly unliveable.
That was in the winter of 2019. Since then, my fascination with eucalyptus in Portugal has snowballed into being the subject of my recently completed Environmental Anthropology MSc thesis, based on two months of ethnographic fieldwork in that same region. You can read that here.